You will need the following tools:

* Torx #15.

* 7mm socket.

* 10mm socket.

* 13mm socket.

* small bladed screwdriver.

* 3 lunch-sack sized paper bags to hold the removed screws and trim pieces.

* 4 cloth towels

Additionally you will need areas to place items removed. Especially a nice clean area to sit the gauge assembly on.

1a. Label a paper bag: 1. Center Console and toss the screws, nuts, and trim pieces as removed into the sack. 

1b. Open the center console storage compartment door. 

1c. Remove the trim piece that contains the Active Handling actuator button. Insert a bladed screwdriver (from the center console compartment bay) and gently pry up the trim piece. There are no screws holding it in place. 

1d. Disconnect the harnesses attached to the AH button, and the passenger air bag indicator. The entire air bag indicator connector assembly can be removed from the trim piece making it easier to separate the two halves. Then using your small bladed screwdriver, lift up on the tab allowing the connectors to separate.

1e. Remove the electrical plug from the back of the cigarette lighter. 

1f. Near the rear of the console cavity, pull up on the two black plastic beauty trim pieces; uncovering two nuts. Remove these two 10mm nuts along with the other two 10mm nuts exposed by removing the earlier AH switch trim piece. 

1g. Move both seat-backs forward (if your Corvette is a Vert, remove the waterfall trim piece as well - 4 T-15 screws ). Then begin lifting up and back at the rear of the center console. Don't completely remove the console because there are wiring harnesses that will need unplugged to allow the center console to be completely removed. 

1h. Unplug the fuel door release switch connector by lifting on the retaining tab and pulling the harness away from the switch. Set the center console aside.

1i. Place seat backs back into their original positions.

1j. Close the sack labeled: 1. Center Console.

2a. Label second sack: "2. Center IP Trim". 

2b. Open your ashtray outer door and remove the ashtray by opening its interior door and pulling out the ash repository.

2c. Remove two T-15 screws now visible in the ash tray area; one screw is deep in the cavity.

2d. Pry off the plastic trim rectangle (with the slots) next to the ignition switch  with a bladed screwdriver.

Remove the now exposed T-15 screw:

 

2e. Pull the emergency brake on and place your gear shifter in neutral. To do this you'll need to have the ignition switch turned to the "ON" position; then placing the ignition key back into the "off" position (or as far CCW as it will allow you).

2e. Gently start pulling the center IP trim piece towards the rear away from the dash. Do not pull it very far as there is a wiring harnesses to detach. This IP trim piece surrounds the ignition key-switch. Make sure your keys can fit through the surrounding cut-out of the trim piece. The factory key-fob will fit through the opening.

Once you have the trim far enough out, remove the plastic electrical connector attached to the cigarette lighter. Pry out on the two plastic fingers along the sides of the lighter receptacle and pull off the connector.

2f. Now you should be able to completely remove the center IP trim piece and set it aside. If you have a manual shift, take care in separating the shift boot from the trim panel. On A4's, the shift boot stays in place without any effort.

2g. Close the bag labeled: "2. Center IP Trim"

3a. Label your last sack "3. Main IP"

3b. Pry off the trim plate containing the rear hatch and fog light switches as shown below. As you pull it out, disconnect the wiring harnesse(s).

remove exposed T15 screw:

 Once the switch trim plate is removed, look into the dash cavity to determine if a metal keeper has been left in the dash. If so, remove it with needle nose pliers and re-secure the metal keeper into the back of the switch trim housing:

3c. Remove the lower dash dressing panel by removing two T-15 screws. Next, pull the drivers side of the dressing panel downward and towards the drivers seat, repeat on the passenger side of the panel. Notice how this panel fits close to the ignition switch. Do not fully remove the knee dressing panel if your Corvette is equipped with an internal air temperature sensor. The sensor is located in the cavity behind the notched trim panel removed in step #2D. If installed, the wiring harness will need to be detached from the sensor.

3d. Remove a 7mm screw located on the right side of the steering column. This screw is unique in that it has a much larger captive washer than the other screws you have removed.

3e.  Almost in an identical position, but on the drivers side of the steering column; remove another similar 7mm screw with large captive washer.

3f. On each side of the steering column are two oval metal brackets. Each oval metal bracket is held in by two 7mm screws.

 

Removing all 4 screws is accomplished by inserting your socket (with extension) into the access holes located in the lower portion of the brackets. The loosened brackets should hang down out of the way.

3g. Now exposed are two 13mm nuts holding the steering column in place. Remove these nuts. One or both of the studs may contain a black plastic collar that helps center the steering column upon re-installation. If found, make note of how many and their location(s).

3f. Press downward on the steering wheel allowing the entire column to drop. It will travel about 6 to 10 inches down.

3g. Lay a cloth towel on top of the steering wheel and downward on the top of the column protecting it from scratches.

3h. Remove the two T-15 screws along the top of the gauge assembly.

3i. With these screws removed, the IP will be loose. First, locate a white plastic alignment tab protruding down from the IP into a notch in the aluminum IP strut. It is difficult to see, you may need to use a flashlight. Look up from underneath on the passenger side of the steering column area. As you pull out the IP, you will need to lift this tab out of it's aluminum alignment notch.

3j. Pull out the top of the IP first, then rotate it slightly to lift the white plastic tab out of it's notch. Then pull the IP towards you for a few inches only and stop.

3k. From the drivers side of the gauge cluster, reach around and remove a rectangular gray plastic electrical plug from the rear of the cluster. There is a tab that needs to be pressed. The tab is on the opposite side. This connector is firmly seated. Press in on the tab (back towards the connector shell) and pull the connector straight out towards the front of the car.

here is the back of the cluster showing the location of the connector:

For HUD equipped cars, also remove a white plastic plug located at the upper center of the rear of the cluster. There is no locking tab used to secure it. Just pull the connector straight out.

3l. Now remove the entire gauge cluster.

3m. Close the paper sack labeled: "3. Main IP"

4a. Lay a cloth towel on your work surface and lay the gauge cluster down with the back of the cluster towards you.

4b. Remove four long T-15 screws around the perimeter; two on the top, two on the bottom. These screws are long and installed very tight.

4c. Along each side of the cluster there is an electrical connector and wiring harness. Pull out each wiring harness from its connector. There are no locking tabs used in securing these connectors.

4d. Separate the front IP panel trim piece from the cluster, and set the trim piece aside.

4e. remove the clear plastic lens from the cluster by releasing 6 tabs; 3 on top and 3 on the bottom. Set the clear plastic lens aside, setting it down with the exterior face exposed... protecting the interior face from airborne dust. Cover the lens with a towel.

4f. Place the cluster with the gauges facing up. Take your aluminum rings and place them along-side the cluster, in a pattern that mimics the gauge layout (for identification purposes).

4g. Trial fit each piece one at a time. Get a feel for how each fits.

4h. Using gel super glue, apply one ring at a time in this order:

* Oil Pressure (small ring with gap)

* Battery Voltage (small ring with gap)

* Coolant Temp (solid small ring)

* Fuel Gauge (solid small ring)

* Tachometer (large ring)

* Speedometer (large ring)

Gluing tips:

Distribute the glue in a series of small dots; it's much easier to control the application this way. The flash unit on the camera made the glue "dots" larger than what they actually are. It doesn't take much glue to securely bond the ring onto the circular gauge lip. with a firm hold onto the ring, gently place the ring onto it's corresponding gauge. Be careful to keep your fingers from contacting the glue.

With the ring situated properly, use your fingers to hold it in place with medium pressure until the glue has taken a set; about 1 minute. Again, do one ring at a time, holding each in place for 1 minute.

4i. With all 6 rings glued in to place, lay your last cloth towel over the cluster (protecting it from airborne dust) and take a short 10 to 15 minute break. This prevents any gassing of the super glue from being trapped; and possibly fogging up the clear lens. Remember, the clear lens has not been re-installed yet.

Now remove the protective towel and admire your ring bezels!

It's time to reassemble and complete. Just reverse the order of dis-assembly. Re-open paper bag #3 and start.

Here are a few specific notes on this task:

*Inspect the cluster for any dust of finger prints; then inspect the clear lens for prints or dust. Once all are clear, then reattach the clear plastic lens.

* Before placing the entire cluster back into the dash cavity, double check that you fully seated the two electrical plugs located on the sides of the cluster (step 4c)

* When re-installing the cluster into the dash, pay attention to the white plastic locator tab that was mentioned in step 3i; and plug your HUD cable back in.

* Double check to be certain the electrical connector earlier removed from the rear drivers side of the cluster (step 3k) is fully seated.